Peru to you: First Lima

Augusto

Tube of lit water

Suzie

Our room

January 25-26—After a long trip north to Lima, Les, Suzie and Augusto picked us up at the airport.  They brought us to their exquisite home—an apartment in a secure building with lots of light, spacious rooms and lots of beautiful things from the country as décor.  Their maid had cooked something for dinner, so we sat and got to know each other.   

Walk and work in the ancient olives

The next morning we walked through the ancient olive tree park where we saw dogs, and kids and city workers while feeling the hot equatorial sun on our skin.   

Jewelry!  OW!

Sensational collection of pottery

Also we went to view a stunning private collection of pre-Columbian pottery, weavings and jewelry at Museo Larco (http://museolarco.org); pots from the area ranged every era available.  The most unusual part was the separate erotic pottery gallery where clearly they thought that wasting your seed would make you die, evidenced by the skeletons in the act. 

Famous hairless dog; no fleas no shedding!

Also, the famous Peruvian Hairless Dog was there to greet us.  I thought it had mange until I was set straight.  Apparently they are diminishing in numbers due to breeding with other dogs.

Chicha, from dark purple corn

The best cebiche in the world, plus...

Lunch was one of the best meals I’ve had in a long while.  It was at Sr. Limon’s and was a buffet filled with ceviche of all kinds, salads, raviolis with sauces and other delights.  Augusto ordered “chi-cha,” a local drink made with dark purple corn.  It looks like dark Concord grape juice, but I like it better. 

Choreographed fountain

Images in the water

The evening was a treat!  I saw choreographed water.  We went to a fountain park and saw a little river with big colored holes and a bright white fountain that shot up water like Old Faithful.  We stood and watched a linear fountain make all kinds of designs with water: fan-like spray, little tornados, varying jet streams that went on and off and changed angle, and all this with lights that could change colors and intensity.  Then, on came the laser show with video!  There was a ballerina dancing to Swan Lake music, images of flowers during Waltz of the Flowers, and a big sampling of dances from the different parts of Peru with traditional music along with neon-colored lights making abstract waves or spinning squares.  I was impressed.  On our way out, we went through a tube of shooting colored water.

With Suzie at the ruins

Su

January 27—Suzie took the morning off so that she could go with us to the ruins (Huaca Pucllana) and enjoy a delicious, fancy lunch there right in the middle of the site.  She moved to Lima in the late ‘60’s so she saw the transformation of a hill that was used for motocross to digging out a pyramid that dates back centuries.  The mud bricks are vertical and are stacked in units that are trapezoidal.  When the earthquakes came, the new bricks they used in reconstruction all fell, and the ancient ones stayed put.  Now, how did those guys know way back then how to make a structure that would withstand huge earthquakes?  Or better yet, why haven’t we learned from them or why wasn’t the knowledge passed down?  These delicate bricks have lasted all this time (Lima culture AD200-500) in part because Lima does not get any rain—only runoff from the mountains and fog.

Museo Amano

That afternoon Augusto took us to the Fundacion Museo Amano where we saw more amazing samples of pottery from many eras of peoples (Chimu, Chancay and Nazca) of the greater Peru, and also really delicate and fabulous weavings.  My favorites were the shrouds that they made to cover the faces of the dead.  They were like lace.  Suzie’s favorites were the ones that sampled several designs, like a quilt, thinking that a rich woman could choose a pattern for her new dress. 

Les in the Lobby of the Apartment Complex

The Selva.  The Jungle

That night while Suzie and Augusto got gussied up and out to a party, Les and I watched TV!  Such a normal thing has become a special thing to us.  Then, up the next morning to catch the taxi to the airport.  We’re going to the AMAZON!

Contact Dancing in Santiago go go go

January 19—a long travel day started at 5AM.  I kept trying to figure out where cat Brisa sleeps, I slept very lightly.  After many #33 busses stopped to answer my question about going the airport, the correct #33 came and I was off on my first leg to Mendoza. 

Very young baby and Mendoza woman who helped me

I had 5-6 hours in Mendoza before the trip to Santiago, so I caught a bus (“micro” which is a funny name for an enormous city bus) into town with a young mom and 22-day old baby.  I had coffee, browsed the markets and walked around before waiting for the correct #63 bus to go by (after asking about 5 incorrect #63 busses).  About a ½ hour later, bingo!  But 10 minutes before we arrived at the airport, it caught on fire and we all had to get off.  I took a cab the rest of the way.  At the airport, I wanted to get on line, but no one could find the “\” symbol I needed to connect to my EWS email.  

"Garage" means the bus is on fire.  Get off!

LAN.  Please bring my bag!  (3 days!)

Dance Space

The plane was delayed, but not by a whole lot.  Upon arriving in Santiago, my luggage never arrived.  I spent a nice LONG time with the luggage processer, she helped me understand directions to the festival, and then after some time she asked me if I wanted $70 USD.  “Why?” I asked.  In case you need something tonight from missing your luggage: a taxi?  I said that I could buy a blanket to use as a sleeping bag, because I’ll need it to stay warm at night.  I got near the dance place (a funky place with a 2-sided old brick structure and hanging net for 2 walls.  There is a birdcage in the courtyard, classrooms, a small kitchen and bathrooms. 

Live musicians!

The place has mosaics all over and is brightly painted.  It feels good to be there.) with pretty intense hunger, so I stopped for a meal before going in.  They were in the middle of a class, and it was very, very dark.  Of course everyone had to greet me when I arrived; sorry for the distraction!  Fernando was teaching duet unison vowel sounds and then counterpoint.  Cristina asked for me if anyone could take me in for the night since I had nothing to keep me warm. 

Dancing space

Sirena and Family

Don Juanito the cat

A young energetic loving nymph named Sirena (mermaid) took me home.  (I ended up spending the $70 on groceries for the household.)

January 20- 23—Sirena, her sister and a nice cat named “Juanito” (I renamed Don Juano because we really hit it off.) share a place in a gated apartment near the dance festival studio She gave me everything I needed: towel, shampoo,

Wake up in pink PJ's and Bed

dance pants, a card to get me on the bus if I recharge it with pesos.  I realize that I had everything I really needed.  The only thing I missed was my ankle support.  The pack did not arrive the next morning, nor the next, nor the next, but still I felt like I was very well taken care of by Cristina and my new dancing friends.  On this trip I feel like sometimes I open my arms and fall.  Folks are there for support and a dance to assist the descent and send me in another direction.  It’s really beautiful.  …almost magical.  I was thinking about people with absolutely no money or connections and how hard it must be for them.  After phone calls, and back up phone numbers, they finally came and I was reunited with my things.  Meanwhile…

Fernando in the air taught sounding classes

The dancing was great.  I enjoyed watching and taking class and dancing out the lesson.  I let some of the Spanish wash over, and some I took in—right or wrong—and made the best of it.  The people were friendly, earnest and energetic.  Classes were small.  The festival people made some delicious $5 lunches.  There were classes taught by locals too, but I was always off to get a coffee and came back mid-class.  

Very cool house ornament

 

 Cristina and I spent a lot of time together.  We took the day off to ride bikes into the center of Santiago where we went to get the most delicious peaches I’ve ever had!  I-could-hardly-breathe; they were so flavorful.  Wow.  We saw street musicians, performers, puppeteers, a theater festival site, coffee, sculptures, and an art installation and finally went to a solo performance.  The beginning was my favorite, as we entered in the dark.  It was illegally dark—no exit lights or anything.  J. We were trying to guess if we were in the back rows or the front; in a big space or a smaller room; with actors talking around us or regular audience members; how many were we?  The soloist drew her shadow on paper in various ways.  Very quiet was her dance, and solitary.  Upon exiting, we saw a dancer from the festival who had just seen my friends’ company dance nearby.  Sara and Patrik were in town!  I forgot to get more info, and now I missed them! Augggggh. 

 

Javiera dancing in recital space

Cristina and I also went to a recital of one of the festival dancers who plays piano.  After the recital, the four of us stayed, and we danced in the little space with his playing.  Santiago is a happening place!  There were other dance festivals and lots of things for people to do in town.

Emanuel and Sirena with Mayan Calendar

Emanuel and Sirena told me what the Mayans thought of me by coordinating my birthdate with their calendar.  I am a galactic little dog.  I need to do a little more research to find out about the galactic part.  They said that “perritos” are faithful and full of love.  Funny: I’m also a “dog” in the Chinese calendar—a yellow one.

Cristina teaching class

January 24-25—I packed up and took everything to Cristina’s wonderful class that ended with a song and looking upside down at everyone with our heads way back lying on the floor.  A quick meal and goodbye (many kisses and hugs in the Chilean way), and Cristina, Sirena and I were off to the metro.  Cristina was my mom—taking me all the way to the bus and making sure I was snug in the first seat, giving me Argentine pesos to buy a coffee with in the airport, feeding me nuts and raisons on the way….   

Sara and Patrik and I found each other in the airport!

Tsveta in the place downtown

My coffee sock

When I checked in, I showed the counter woman both my tickets and asked if my bags could be checked through to Lima, as I won’t need them.  One ticket takes me on the return trip Buenos Aires to Santiago and back, and the other trip is my round the world trip, going from Buenos Aires through Santiago to Lima.  She said maybe I could arrange the ticket so I didn’t have to go to BsAs and back and just go to Lima.  So, yes, I will stay here until tomorrow.  THEN I got on line and started “talking” with dance friends Sara and Patrik whom I could meet now at the airport.  We had a splendid reunion, though I dominated the conversation with travel news and stories.  I was really happy to see them, and then they offered their room for me to stay in that night.  Back I went to midtown where there was an apartment with a small kitchen, huge loft with a big table on one side and a bed on the other.  One of their dancers that I meet by surprise every 4 or so years was there.  Tsveta greeted me in her usual bouncy way and we talked about the dancing she had been seeing.  She showed me the funky and beautiful dance studio space where they rehearsed and taught master classes.  What a coincidence that they were here and leaving in the airport and had this place…. Fantastic! 

Sirena and I went to see PINA in 3-D!

Argentina Crying for Me? Not At All...

"May I help you?"

Good Bye Hostel Betty in Patagonia

Magellan's boat is SO small!

Patagonia: 8:18 PM and still light enough for a rainbow

First Class Attendant!

December 11—we slept last night at the airport, or tried.  Les did a much better job of it than did I.  But in waiting, I saw such a wonderful sight through a translucent glass at a strong angle from me that could be a wonderful performance art or dance piece set.  People were communicating by breathing on the glass and writing, or with gestures, or putting their ear to the glass.  One woman took a photo of her son on one side and a friend on the other with arms around each other, but they had this glass barrier between them.  We changed planes in Santiago and were not looking forward to being in the front of the next plane with all the babies crying, but when we looked at our seats with our numbers we were shocked that they were in first class!!! Surprise!  So I said yes to everything our attendant offered: magazine, Pisco sour, beautiful course of salad with roast tenderloin, Malbec, moist hot towel, and little rolls.  I had THREE windows through which to see the Andes.  What a sight!  I could see imaginary climbing routes and hikes that would last for months! 

Sweet "Brisa" (Cristina's kitty)

Wake up, Les!

At the airport we had a comedy of errors, with me going in to look for information about a shuttle, while outside Les asked the shuttle to wait, but it couldn’t, and inside I had to call them, but didn’t have the change, I got some, then their last shuttle was gone (they said, but Les found it) so I  paid for another that left in 7 minutes, which of course we missed….  We got to Cristina’s place just fine.  It’s so nice of her to let us stay in the heart of San Telmo.

Genoveva and Nahuel

January 13-14—The highlight of one day was going to Palermo to have dinner with Genoveva and Nahuel.  We got there early and watched dogs in the park, looked for them and watched children play until ½ hour overdue.  We started to leave and there they were waiting for US!  We went to quite a fancy place with delicious food and a groovy atmosphere. 

Les and I went on the outskirts of town to a fair in Matadero where I bought some folkloric men’s pants years ago and a three-metal ring.  When we got there, nothing was going on!  It starts next week.  Anyway, the bus ride was beautiful and cheap. 

In the evening, I went to the park across the street to see if I could see more Murga dancing, and I fell into a little fair.  There were stalls with cheap stuff closing down and some folkloric dancers doing the Argentine Samba and Chacadera. 

Folkloric Dance: Chakadera and Samba

A young man in a suit evidently loved dancing, and was quite graceful and dashing with the ladies.  He joined the live band later with a mandolin type instrument.

one woman band street musician

January 15—Les took off for Ecuador this morning.  I will miss him!

Buenos Aires's version of "Freecycle"

After roaming the streets looking at Tango and things to buy in the street, I went back to the cheap fair and bought a pair of pants for about $2US, and cruised around looking for a very small book to write down finances.

Three Phases Of Woman

Sue with big bad wolf

Rodin's work in the park

"How long do I have to lie like this?"

Cristina and Nora (a friend and local actress/teacher) and I met at the Japanese Gardens to stroll through the park and to look at statues being repaired.  These two are like close sisters.  It’s fantastic to see how at ease they are with each other.’

I got to the dance jam and Gabriel recognized me from teaching long ago here.  I didn’t expect to negotiate faces from the past—I am so bad at this.  Genoveva was there and we had a dance that was airy, full of momentum and joy. 
Dani let me experiment with an idea I have for a class I want to teach next week in Chile about the muscles hugging the bones.  Our dance was full of friction, spiral, pressure and contraction, starting with an enormous hug.  Dancing with Paula and another presented a trio that inter-weaved the three of us with surprise, joy and satisfaction.  I was happily spent when the jam ended, and took the 24 bus back to Cristina’s nice home.

Cristina and Nora in the boat on the Tigre Delta

Mate on the lawn

The beach on the river

bathing beauties

January 16—Today was Tigre day.  Nora, Cristina and I drove to the delta of Tigre where we went to a park with a small river beach, and we ate fruit, drank mate and beer, and relaxed in the sun.  The river is brown, but a wonderful temperature.  I assume it’s pretty polluted, so I kept my head out.  We had a wonderful time going and coming.

Gabriel and Bryce

Cristina and Paula

Bryce and Gustavo

January 17—was a blogging and laundry day with a jam at the end.  Oh, it was great to see some of the old dancers again.  Gabriel, Gustavo, Genoveva, Paula and Bryce, and two others were there with Cristina and me.  Bryce is house-sitting this place with a yoga studio.  We did “contemplative dance practice,” then an open jam.  It was delightful.  So many people with different qualities and playful and deep work.  Gustavo and I had a quick light arm dance that snaked and whipped around.  Sweet. We got home late.

January 18—prattling around with making a blog movie and spending a long time going from one cash machine to another that would have money or take my card, then waiting in line forever at the grocery store while the electricity went out.  Coffee. Laundry.  Meeting the woman who made our rings.  Chile tomorrow!