Benedicto:

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your rivers flow without end, meandering through pastoral valleys tinkling with bells, past temples and castles and poets’ towers into a dark primeval forest where tigers belch and monkey’s howl, through miasmal and mysterious swamps and down into a desert of red rock, blue mesas, domes and pinnacles and grottos of endless stone, and down again into a deep vast ancient unknown chasm where bars of sunlight blaze on profiled cliffs, where deer walk across the white sand beaches where storms come and go as lightening clangs upon the high crags, where something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your deepest dreams waits for you---beyond that next turning of the canyon walls. ---Edward Abbey (thanks Trudy Hall)

Friday, March 30, 2012

Last Leg in Mexico into the Good Ol' USA

BYE, GOOD FRIENDS!


March 12—After losing our buds Maureen and Jen we sadly wandered around the beautiful city built on a steep hill.  The image of Pipilo stood above all, representing the man who put a rock slab on his back to avoid the bullets of the Spanish in the grain storage building, gained access to the door then torched all those inside, and won the battle for independence for Guanajuato.

Colorful homes cascade down to the theaters, shops, museums, churches (the Pope is coming soon) and roads, one of which flows underneath the town because it used to be the riverbed.
Les in our hostel room


Sue Downstairs




Headboard after Frida Kahlo's artwork

Our hostel is lovely, covered with flowers and wrought iron.  Apparently we were lucky to have the left side, as the “Bar Fly” is attached to the other side, and music pumps the walls until 3:30AM. 




March 13-15—We explored the market and looked every day for the pulque man.  I want to bring home some agave honey water if I can.  I found some silver earrings, a little skeleton named Katrina and fruit/veggie shakes.  YUM.

Diego Rivera's birth home


Diego Rivera's image of the beginning of the world.
We went to the birthplace of Diego Rivera and saw the room with the crib where he slept.  Upstairs an all-encompassing exhibit of his early work hung in every room (cubist phase, nudes, volcano images, post-impressionist from Paris room, Mexican folklore interpretations, and his signature style including sketches of things we saw in the palace earlier.  Later, we saw a Spanish movie “Beneath our Feet.”  I enjoyed it very much, though I understood about 5% of it.  I am going to miss getting better at Spanish, as I still have a long way to go!
Ballet class with Mariella Messina

One highlight was calling the local ballet teacher to ask her if I could watch a rehearsal of “Dark Light” (Luz Oscuro).  I had seen a poster of the opening and it looked very interesting.  Mariella Messina invited me to come see a class!  After eating a delicious tamale, I climbed into a cab who took me to the top of the ridge.  Beautiful view!  But then he backed down a dark driveway.  I thought, “Oh Great, this is when I get robbed.” But no, this was indeed the studio.  He rung the doorbell and a nice woman guided me two floors down into the studio.

Balletic "Katrinas"

They were rehearsing a duet and a little ditty for the younger students.  All were scary and demonic or playing with images of skeletons.  It was great to watch class.  It looked Russian in its expression, yet it was coming from her Cecchetti background; she was Italian.  The students were focused and worked very hard to get the legs higher, and to achieve the intensity in the legs that make for fire-y footwork.  She and her students were very kind to me.  It was a true pleasure to meet kindred souls from far away.
We paid extra to have a more secure taxi WHO IS WATCHING TV!
Tent city of the teachers striking in the main square (Zocalo)

March 15—was our travel day.  We ate a delicious breakfast that our hostel supplied (from a fruit and toast plate, to eggs Mexican style, to toast with beans, sausage and cheese on top), and made our way to the bus station.  Back to Mexico City! 

 
We took a cab to the hostel, but the guy said the whole area was closed because of the teachers’ union strike.  They had closed down most of the nearby streets and set up tents to protest the government mandating examinations of their subject knowledge.  Lightning surrounded us, so we went up to the rooftop for a mojito to watch the show.  LOVELY and exciting!  I have said if I ever came back to life as something, it would be an electrical storm.  Yeah.
Indian Embassy
March 16—We got our Indian visas with no problem, except that we took a taxi that had to figure out how to get around all those striking (demonstrating) teachers.  It took a long, long time.   


Diego Rivera oversaw this mural at the University Library
Afterwards, we decided to go to the university to see the famous giant murals by Diego Rivera.  I do remember seeing them as a 5-year-old, and also the high dive for the Olympics. Across the street was the Olympic stadium.  This time Les and I lay in front of the colorful library mural and gazed at all the images on it, and tried to interpret them as best we could.  I wondered, if it wasn’t made of tile, why hadn’t the painting faded in time and weather?  There were students all over the quad doing yoga, playing ping-pong, listening to music, practicing circus skills and breakdancing, studying, kissing and locomoting.  It’s energizing to be on a huge university campus again!  On the way back, I wanted to see if I could find “pulque” to bring home for friends to try, and followed some directions to a plaza where there was a pulqueria.  This is the natural stuff that comes from the agave plant that they let ferment before distilling it into tequila and mescal.   I had a cup of the natural, then a sample of the peach flavored one.  It didn’t taste as good as the one we tasted at the pyramids.  The seller said that it wouldn’t make it to the USA because the fermentation is fast enough that it would explode in the plane.  Oh, well. 

March 17—was my shopping day.  I figured I could get things a little cheaper than the duty free stores IF they were open at 5:30 tomorrow morning.  My list included things I can’t get in the US very easily: vanilla, cajeta, damiana, ronpope, pisco, boots, and something light and easy to take to hosts when we travel.  I also bought some bubble wrap, a big bag with a zipper ($3US) and a 3-metal ring ($.90 US).  We have been collecting these rings.   

Healer's supplies
As I shopped, I enjoyed seeing the healers douse people with fragrant smoke and herbs and water as they had soft conversations beforehand.   
Aztec Dancer with feathers, shakers, and masks.

The Aztec dancers were out in force too, banging their drums and dancing in their loin cloths and feathers ALL Sunday.  
Reminds me of the top of my childhood Christmas tree angel
St. Judas: Saint of Lost Causes, with personal notes on ribbons
 I spent a little time in church too.   As I sat and felt others come in for 5 minutes to pray and go I was thinking how it’s not so different than the muslims that stop to pray 5 times a day.  Also, I was sitting quietly with others who were meditating, in front of the image of the Virgin de Guadalupe (a specifically Mexican icon) in a European structure that is slowly sinking into the ancient lake that has become Mexico City, with Aztec drums beating outside and ancient ruins of temples next door, a trumpet that sounds one note three times every few minutes, and tourists coming to view the whole that is uniquely Mexican!
Most of my booty I brought to the hotel was liquid, so I spent the next bit of time wrapping bottles up in bubble wrap, shoes and clothing to withstand the luggage handlers.  Our packs were extra heavy—back up to where they were when we started—around 20 kilos.   
Fruit Salad!
Great Shakes

We went back to our favorite fruit place and had fresh salads and juice shakes.  Then the hostel had a “warm up party” on the roof: drinks at ½ price and one free shot of tequila.  Les and I went up to have a mojito and listen to the oldies playing as we watched the night skyline blink.

You can plug in your car! Solar Panels feed this.
March 18-27—After a couple of hours sleep, we got to the airport too early and arrived in Miami.  I think the dog sniffer smelled the tea and dipping spices I have been carrying from Israel because the backpack was uncovered and opened in that area.  Nothing missing.   
Chinese Visa Application
Next morning we got to the Chinese Embassy early and waited about an hour.  When it was our turn, we had to get new photos (ours were 12 months old, not 6 months).  Also Les’s last clear page had been stamped by Mexico as we were exiting, so they wouldn’t give him a visa without a clean page.  He went to the US visa services who took too long to get extra pages, so he ended up getting the additional pages in Boston later.  
Bus Broke Down
We were early for the Megabus, so we got on the bus that was one before ours at 1:10.  At 5:00 it broke down and we had to wait until 7:45 for another bus. Luckily, it was a beautiful day, we could catch up on sleep, and there was internet and electricity; so Les worked on his blog for a long time.  We caught the last commuter train to Southborough and an angel friend that Les adores picked us up in Les’s car. 
TARKA!  Reunited with a strong, healthy dog, thanks to RUTH
We ran over to Troy to pick up dear TARKA and the car.  THANK you Ruth!  THANKS Sarah and Alan!  The dog and car are strong and energetic.  Tarka has more white and is more wiggly than the car though.
After washing travelers checks

After a day of washing everything in my pack (including documents and a large amount of travelers checks) and wearing old clothes like they were long lost friends,  and ironing the travelers checks so that they were a little drier and flatter, I took off for Maine.
Becky the Rolfer

My favorite bodyworker is there.  Becky the Rolfer can make me stand better on my feet, increase range in joints, get rid of nerve pinches and make miracles happen.  After my session with her, I went to a couch-surfing host (Wendy) who is a dynamic art teacher and mother of amazing children who have grown to embrace their passions in life.   
Days old Kid
We went next door to hold the wee baby goats, went walking in the warm night by the lake, and shared stories about activism, environmentalism and changing the world for the better through art with Wendy.  The next morning I went back to Becky and then to one of my favorite salvage stores, Marden’s to buy some professional clothes and shoes.  I scored a pair of those Merrell barefoot shoes Martin was so excited about for 1/2 price!  Then I drove back to Boston for a day, including having dinner and making Pisco Sours for some wonderful friends at Les’s school before heading to Troy to do financial stuff and taxes, see doctors and dentists and to visit dear friends. 
I think the greatest luxury of a sabbatical is having the time to be able to work something out.  If something doesn’t turn out as expected, I feel like I can remain relaxed and trust that I’ll be able to work it out.  No one suffers because of my decisions, and I am not really responsible to anyone but myself (and the whole world in some esoteric way, really).  What a huge weight off!  I am so grateful!  There’s nothing like it.  (How’s retirement, people who have been through some of that?)

University architecture in Guanajuato

Saturday, March 17, 2012

What's Better Than Friends Joining Us In Mexico: San Miguel de Allende? NOTHING!

Maureen and Jen
Maureen...
...and Jen

 
March 5—We called the house manager who didn’t know we wanted to meet him at noon yet, and made our way to the beautiful home Maureen rented for the week.  
"Casa de los Amigos"



Kitchen


Room with a view




Roof View

  
El bano
Sensational!  It has 3 floors and a roof garden area with Mexican colors and plants everywhere.  It has internet and TV and stereo AND purified water; somebody really caters well!  We went out to find some paper, pencils and flowers to greet the gringas to the new home, but when we returned Maureen and Jen were already at the door!  We sat and caught up then went out to find a meal.  IT IS SOOOOO GREAT TO SEE THEM!!!  After more wonderful conversation and planning the next day, we made guacamole and retired for the night in our big comfy beds.


















How Many Ice Creams Can You Make?  Avocado?  Rose Petal?  Beer?


 

Miguel Hidalgo Started Mexican Independence



Grita: VIVA MEXICO

March 6—Dolores Hidalgo day!  We walked to the bus station and took a 45-minute ride to a nearby town that is famous for it’s unusual ice cream.  We went to one stand and started tasting: avocado, seafood, rose petal, tequila, beer, grapefruit, and many of the standards.  Also, we visited the museum of the independence of Mexico.  It was here where Manuel Hidalgo cried, “VIVA MEXICO,” and started the revolution to make Mexico independent from Spain.  On the way back, we visited a store that was owned by Wal-Mart.  It was huge, and a perfect place to buy another memory sticks for the computer.  We bought groceries and then tortillas on the way home (a little boy was working the grinding machine, they were selling 1K for 14 pesos like hotcakes!  We made a nice chicken stir-fry to put in the tortillas.  The chicken looked like breasts at the store, but were really paper-thin cut slices rolled up.  Surprise.  I started a new book from the collection here: Blind, by Brazilian writer Jose Saramago.

Emma Willard People including Jack and Emma herself!

 

"A Miracle!"

March 7—A computer catch up day.  I had a glitch in my camera that put a glitch in my heart, but I got it working again.  I walked with Maureen and Jen to the center and got info on the hot springs and markets, and a coffee for Les who stayed up until 4AM working on the fantasy baseball draft, coming up soon. (By the way, there was a miracle in the to-go coffee lid.  Les asked me if I “did” this, while showing me a perfect smiley face under the lid.  No.  It just appeared; likely from another dimension!)  It takes forever to load videos for a movie.  I know it’s all worth the wait.  In the evening, we ate steak and empanadas Argentinian-style before going to a dance concert.  As it turns out, we got there just as the lights went down, but afterwards discovered that we arrived just in time for the 2nd half!  UGH.  Anyway, these Japanese Butoh dancers were fantastic.  The delicate and subtle movements were question inspiring.  They exhibited a perfect demonstration of Laban’s efforts: quick light and bound.  Facial detail was a treat as well as the pattern the white powder left on the back wall as if a ghost of the dancer.  
 

Lunch at the Market
March 8—We went out to explore the market and have a strawberry shake in the morning.   

 

 



We ended up on top of a hill at a chapel where a woman was cleaning.  We looked around and asked her questions including why there were so many stickers on the doors around the neighborhood that said,  “We’re Catholics.  Welcome.”  She said she didn’t have one on her door because she didn’t have any interest in converting people to Catholicism. 


 

 

Then I went to a martial art studio to meet Martin Keogh and his friends to warm up and do authentic movement.  I SO enjoyed our contact warm up.  It’s been a long while, and he was incredibly easy to read and to connect with—gracious, kind, inviting.  The authentic movement had a nice score.  One person was witness for 15 minutes before it shifted without a break.  It gave us long sessions to develop what was going on inside of us.  

Afterwards, Martin turned me on to this little corner store with the local “Santo Nino Doctorcito” in it.  As it turns out, there is this little doll, dressed as a doctor that people come to for a little miracle to heal them.  People dance for him, or promise to once they are better, and bring him toys, candy, pop and flowers in thanks.  The woman in the store says he always heals her, so she doesn’t need to go to a physician for anything.  Once a year they celebrate his birthday, so March 30 is the day they bring him out into the nearby plaza, have a barbeque, dance, wear colorful masks and bring gifts to celebrate this child doctor saint.
When I got home, everyone was there.  We relaxed with a meal of tequila-lime chicken made by Jen that was DELISH. The finale included playing cards on the kitchen table, interrupted by a short display of nice fireworks we could see from the roof terrace.

Can you find Les?

 

 

 

 

 


November 9—We walked to the place where the bus was supposed to pick us up for the little town of  Atotonilco.  There’s a hot spring next to it called “Escondido Place,” where we enjoyed the many pools of warm to very warm water.  Each set of three had a “chorro” (spout of water) that massaged muscles and rattled bones.  It was nice to float, or swim, or just be in the thermal water. In town we were hot in the air and welcomed the wind; but when we were wet, it was mighty cool with the breeze.  We brought peanut butter and tortillas to eat, then back in the water until a guy came along and said it’s closing time.   
 

 
We walked down the long driveway past goats and a man herding them, and then only waited a minute for the bus back to San Miguel.  


The mailbox caught Les's hat



For dinner, we ate at a place where most of the people were white. Someone said that 1/3 of the residents were gringos.  There was a jazz combo playing, and we had a nice meal before going to the center to see about the Cuban party the city was having.   


 

There was a large band playing, and a good time was had by everyone, including the dogs, kids with lights on their heads, teenage lovers and couples out to dance. 

 
November 10—Another trip to the market produced tortillas, pineapple, guacamole makings and cheese.  



 
 Nature was the major theme of the day.  My friend Martin told us of a nature reserve and botanical park where the white-throated swifts gather by the thousands just around sunset and dive into the cracks of the rocks to roost.  We took a taxi that took about 20 minutes to go way up the hill (we were going to walk!) to the park’s entrance.  It was beautiful, with a large reservoir, tons of cacti—including endangered barrel cacti that folks use for candy.  

 Jen and Maureen are into “Geo-caching,” and there were two sites there.  We looked and looked for the first one, but to no avail, and gave up on the second one because we didn’t want to miss the bird show.   

We followed Martin’s instructions and soon the swifts were swooping and chattering and filling the sky.  Three loud crows accompanied them, appearing like the roost police, standing at the opening and cawing as if to tell them “lights out in 15 minutes!”   The rock appeared to have suction like a vacuum cleaner, birds were being sucked into the crevasses several at a time.






 

We continued toward the town and ended up at a sensational viewpoint.  We could see the whole valley of San Miguel, with rain in front of the sunset.  It was a beautiful sight, and we wanted to linger longer except for the growing lightning.  We made it back just at the same time as the taxi who said he would be there, and passed the fancy million-dollar homes the Americans built for retirement but couldn’t climb the stairs because they were so old, the driver said.  We passed the Rosemount Hotel that listed their rooms for $900 a night, and the Benito Juarez Park nearby as it started to rain harder.  
As I carved the pineapple, Maureen called down that there was good lightning on the roof.  We watched for a good while, until the wind drove the drops where we couldn’t escape them.  A beautiful day full of sensational nature was finished by yummy guacamole! 
 

Martin shows off the cappuccino with the dog


John gets the Mona Lisa


Sky gets the coveted scorpion
November 11—After calling Miguel to tell him we had run out of gas, I joined the local dancers at the Arthur Murray Dance Studio for a boogie based on the 5 Rhythms developed by Gabriel Roth.  No one formally started anything, introduced the score or anything so I joined in on what was happening.  There were only a few folks at first, and Martin and I had a scrumptious warm up dance while “Hare Krishna” slowly revved up to frenzy in 10-15 minutes.  By that time, more folks had come and by the end, there were more than 50 people (?) dancing the way they like to music that was meant to bring them into many physical and mental states.  There was a leader who had brought the music who was beloved and had returned after dancing elsewhere.  Afterwards, Martin, John and Sky and I went for coffee and a bite.  The best coffee in town, they said; so I couldn’t resist.  I asked for a picture of a dog on my cappuccino. 
 

When Maureen and Jen came back from shopping, we decided to eat at Tan Tan Pie, where there was fantastic art all over the place.  I loved the wire mesh forms that cast shadows on the upper walls, and the playful paintings in the small place.  We walked around looking for the place where a guy told me a Cuban group was playing.  We found them eventually.  They sounded great. 


Pina Coladas to end the time at casa amigos

 Jen wasn’t feeling great so she relaxed while the three of us had pina coladas and played UNO.
March 12—We slowly packed, and ate what we could of the groceries.  Maureen folded the picto-journal of what we did while in “La Casa de los Amigos” that was on the refrigerator into the guest book, and soon we were walking to the bus station to go to Guanajuato.   
 
We took a LONG taxi ride to the center of town that seemed more like a neighboring town, dropped off our stuff, got some iced cream, looked around a little and said a forlorn goodbye to our buddies. 

Our room in the casa looks over a garden (left)



Were the trees there first, or the road?

Kids practice their moves in the town center "jardin"
Also Mariachis play for $10 a song

Beautiful doors everywhere



These fancy skeletons are called, "Katrinas."  Listen to Les's, "A Skeleton Walks Into A Bar..." joke on the video