Mongolian Countryside!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdGvbQgtvu4&feature=related
THIS music video has so much of what we're learning about Mongolia!

July 11

Today starts Nadam, a big celebration of Mongolia, so Haliuna (our hostess) arranged transportation out to the horseracing site.  

fellow passengers

 On the way, the van broke down and so we went across the highway to sample some mare’s milk vodka.  

Haliuna stirring mare's milk

Pretty good!  Then Haliuna took us plus her charming brother, niece (Michelle) and two Chinese tourists (Yan & Feng) up the hill toward a Gur that had horses tied to a line.  

mutton hanging from rafters

 We went inside and sat while a boy slept on the carpet over the grass next to the Buddhist alter with mare’s milk and gifts on it, then we changed to the next door gur that seemed to be the kitchen and hang out area with meat drying on the rafters, a tiny stove in the middle, small cupboard, bed and floor mattress.   

Outside was a decorated motorbike that the cowboy used to bring the horses down the hill.  

They poured us mare’s milk beer--a little more bubbly than the milk vodka.  I offered almonds.  

 Before we left, we watched them milk a horse.   A colt primed the pump, they took away the colt, and she squatted on the left side of the horse (right side gives you sour milk!) 

Another van showed up with Haliuna’s husband and with a toddler asleep in the back seat; and off we went to the races.  As soon as we got there, the children (young!) racing the horses were nearing the finish line.  Folks were hooting them encouragement.  The children wore bright colors and the horses looked tired after 20 K running.  There is only grass and a strong smelling plant that reminded my sinuses of sage in our West.  One can see several days walk in one eyeful, like the tundra in Alaska.   

We went to a beef Kabob seller and ate the best food we’ve had yet.  Rain was in the distance when Les and I went waaay down the hill to see the booths with calligraphy, 

Instal

folklore, felting, archery, a stage etc., but of course it had closed 10 minutes earlier.  Trainers, and horse riders of all ages were riding the range; one beat me to the outhouse and kept hold of the reigns while he was inside. J  It was cold when we returned to the van, and they bought VERY (exploded and spilled when opened) greasy pocket breads filled with mutton.  Haliuna left her hat at the family’s gur, so we headed back; but on the way, the driver wanted to pick up some fresh mutton.  I’ll say it was fresh!  He was offered a sheep here, or a more expensive on there.  They would have it butchered while we went to get Haliuna’s hat.  While he was negotiating the sale, I watched as they skinned another.  The skin came off relatively easy; I could see how thick and all-encompassing fascia is.  Meanwhile, back at the gur, we had boiled mare’s milk (given in bowls starting with the eldest to the youngest) while the woman, wearing high heels, rolled out the dough for noodles, and fried then boiled veggies and meat for soup. 

Cowboys came in on their horses and tied them to what looked like a volleyball net, came in with their robes, and big colorful sashes and Russian boots.  Haliuna said it was proper to offer them $5 each couple, so we fished out some money and I handed it over Les and said “thank you” to our host.  Haliuna took the other tourist’s money and bowed in front of the man with a little ceremony holding the money with two hands.  Ugh, I think my version was crass and ungraceful.  Sorry, I should have waited for a cue.  The van came back with meat in the back seat and we followed the huge storm into town.  I crashed upon return.